Mandolin Plate tuning using Chladni patterns |
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Equipment used | |
There are 5 things that you will need to enable you to use this method. 1) A sine wave generator that allows the frequency to be changed smoothly. 2) An amplifier to boost the signal from the sinewave generator 3) A loudspeaker mounted under a flat surface. 4) Some small, soft foam blocks to support the plate. 5) A couple of tubes of Christmas Glitter. (this is in the form of tiny, shiny, flat plates and is used as a decoration on Christmas cards and the like by sprinkling it onto a glue shape on a blank card). Sand, salt or sugar will also work but not so well. I have a 6" loudspeaker mounted under my workbench as shown. It is quite a fragile item so a cover for it should be made for when it is not being used. The 4 foam blocks are used to mount the plate over the speaker and should be set to the minimum height that doesn't allow the plate to touch the benchtop (even when vibrating) I try to set this to about 3/32" max. |
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The Sine wave generator and the amplifier are contained in the rather crude package shown here and work well despite the appearence. The big dial (from an old radio) sweeps the frequency of sine wave. The top dial (marked "signal")sets the amplitude of the signal and can be left set. The dial marked "amp" controls the volume at the loudspeaker and should be set to give a good level of vibration to the plate.
In order to measure the actual frequency I use my Boss electronic tuner (the same one I use when tuning up to play) This is sufficiently accurate for this purpose and is a cheap way of getting the required accuracy. I have also used a "Quiktune" tuner that cost only $20 and I find it usless for tuning the instrument but quite OK fo reading the frequency of the sine wave - probably because the sine wave doesn't have the complex wave form that a string produces.
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Tuning the plates - some examples
The pictures below show the final state of tune of the front plate of the A5L copy that I am making. I didn't take any pictures of the patterns during the thicknessing of the plate but most of the effort is done at the early stage, before the bars are fitted or the sound holes cut. The Chladni patterns are much more coherent then. |
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With the plate mounted on the foam blocks over the loudspeaker, I sprinkle the surface with a light dusting of the "Christmas Glitter" before starting the sinewave generator. |
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The picture at the right shows the pattern at 15 cents below middle C. Of course I have no evidence so show if these frequencies are good or bad. Only time and experience can show that.
Ray: Yeah, that's right. I normally tune the top to a C-note and the back to a D. I had a couple of mandolins where the spruce I used for the tops was pretty hard. I had carved the top down to a C#, but I didn't want to go any thinner because of the structural aspect. So I decided to leave it at C# and make the back tune to a D#, to maintain the same relationship. These mandolins ended up sounding great. I think the relationship of the frequencies, how they all work together, are more important than tap-tuning to a particular note.
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There is also a library of pictures showing all the modes of vibration of a free violin plate Chladni patterns of a handmade violin
© 1999 mike.nelson@camcon.co.uk